The Historic Heart of Albuquerque Has Native Artisans, Secret Courtyards & Delicious Chile Everywhere

Old Town, Albuquerque

This entire place feels like a living history book that smells like roasting chile and piñon. Welcome to Old Town Plaza, Albuquerque, where Spanish colonial charm meets Instagram-worthy patios and the best sopapillas this side of anywhere.

Waiting for you are 300+ years of history packed into a plaza where adobe buildings watched America grow up around them. Here’s what makes Old Town the beating corazón of the Southwest.

It Started Out as a Farming Community

Before there was the United States (by a whopping 70 years), there was already Old Town Albuquerque.

In 1706, a group of Spanish families decided this spot along the Rio Grande was prime real estate and laid out what would become ABQ’s first neighborhood.

Led by Francisco Cuervo y Valdés, these colonial settlers established a small farming community that has somehow survived three different national flags flying overhead: Spain, Mexico, and finally the stars and stripes.

The Church That Anchors the Old Town Plaza

Like Old Town, the San Felipe de Neri Church is a survivor. Today’s church was built in 1793 after the original one collapsed during an unusually wet summer in 1792.

The replacement has stood strong through major historical events and continues to serve as the plaza’s centerpiece. Its thick adobe walls keep the interior cool even during hot New Mexico summers.

When you visit, notice the wooden beams (vigas) that have supported the roof for over two centuries.

The Battle of the Buried Howitzers

During the Civil War, Confederate forces under General Henry Hopkins Sibley briefly seized Old Town, a historical footnote most tourists never hear about.

In a particularly dramatic moment, Confederate soldiers buried their howitzers (cannons) near the plaza to prevent Union forces from capturing them.

Decades later, these weapons were dug up under the watchful eye of an ex-Confederate commander.

Portal Market’s Native American Shops

For authentic Native American products, visit the Portal Market on the plaza’s east side. Here, artists sell directly to customers.

Just real people creating genuine art you can watch being made. The market runs daily from 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., featuring local craftspeople selling handmade turquoise jewelry and other southwestern items.

Many artists continue traditions their families have practiced for generations. Ask about their techniques, it’s lovely to hear them explaining the meaning behind their designs.

The Courtyards of Old Town

The best spots in Old Town aren’t always visible from the main walkways. Walk through doorways to find hidden courtyards with plants, fountains, and artists working quietly.

Plaza Don Luis stands out among these secret spaces, but many more exist between shops. These patios offer locals a place to escape crowds, enjoy local drinks, and listen to guitar music in summer evenings.

Some of the best food in town is served in courtyard restaurants that aren’t heavily advertised—follow the cooking smells to find them.

Territorial-Style Architecture

Old Town has a special type of architecture called “Territorial Style.” It mixes traditional adobe building methods with Greek Revival details.

When the Santa Fe Trail opened, new materials came in, and people started adding whitewashed lumber, fancy posts, and pitched roofs to their adobe buildings.

Check out the Romero Store on the southwest corner and the Zamora store on the east side to see different versions of this unique style.

Chiles Are Everywhere in Old Town

New Mexico’s state question is literally “Red or green?”—referring to chile preference—and nowhere embraces this obsession like the Old Town.

Local shops sell everything from chile-infused chocolates to chile wine, chile beer, and even chile ice cream. Challenge yourself to try at least one dish with both red AND green chile (ordering “Christmas style”).

The Luminaria

One of Old Town’s most beautiful traditions happens on Christmas Eve when thousands of luminarias create a golden glow throughout the plaza. These simple paper bags with sand and candles make a warm, glowing path that tradition says guides the spirit of the Christ child.

Luminarias have changed over time. They originally weren’t paper bags at all but small fires made of crossed piñon branches built in three-foot squares.

Today’s Christmas Eve display attracts thousands of visitors. For the best experience, arrive just after sunset to see the transition from daylight to glowing evening.

Old Town Ghost Stories and Legends

When buildings have centuries of history like Old Town, they tend to collect a few ghostly residents. Local legends claim at least five spirits haunt Old Town’s plaza and surrounding buildings.

The most famous is the “Lady in White” who supposedly appears in upper windows of La Placita Restaurant (formerly the Armijo hacienda), while others report hearing phantom footsteps in the church basement.

The spooky vibes intensify during Old Town’s Day of the Dead celebrations, when sugar skulls and marigold petals honor the connection between this world and whatever comes next.

The Vigas and Latillas

Look up when wandering Old Town to spot one of its most distinctive architectural features—vigas and latillas.

These wooden ceiling beams (vigas) and smaller wood slats (latillas) are synonymous with traditional adobe buildings. Most were hand-cut from pine trees hauled down from the nearby Sandia Mountains by mule or ox teams. I

n authentic buildings, no two vigas are identical. Their organic, imperfect quality is what gives Old Town structures their distinct handmade character and surprising strength.

These wooden elements have inspired countless Southwestern home designs across America.