Though Under Navajo Protection Today, These Ancient Arizona Dwellings Tell Another Tribe’s Story

The Navajo National Monument, Arizona

Hike into these remote Arizona canyons and you’ll discover ancient dwellings, drawings, and even handprints—all while Navajo rangers share the fascinating history of a civilization that predates their arrival. Here are some interesting facts about this amazing monument.

The Dwellings Are Ancient Puebloan Homes

Navajo National Monument was established back in 1909 in Navajo Nation territory. The 360-acre park protects three main cliff dwellings: Betatakin, Keet Seel, and Inscription House.

Despite what the name suggests, the Navajo didn’t build these places, they’re just located on Navajo land now. The Ancestral Puebloan people built these structures inside massive sandstone alcoves.

They Were Only Occupied for Around 5 Decades

The Ancestral Puebloans were master survivors who built communities in the Southwest. Between 1250 and 1300 CE, they constructed homes inside natural rock shelters, farmed the land above, and gathered wild plants below.

The weird thing is, they only lived in these well-built homes for about 40-50 years before moving on. Their descendants – today’s Hopi, Zuni, Navajo, and Paiute tribes – still connect to these sacred places. The Zuni creation story actually mentions migration through areas now known as Navajo National Monument.

The Betatakin Ruins

Betatakin (“Ledge House” in Navajo) is tucked into a huge sandstone alcove measuring 452 feet high and 370 feet wide, with 120 to 130 rooms. The multi-story structures included living quarters, storage rooms, and ceremonial spaces called kivas.

The alcove faces south, so the winter sun warmed the homes while the summer shade kept them cool. Locals built everything using sandstone blocks, wooden beams from nearby trees, and clay mortar. Some sources indicate that only about 80 rooms remain today due to erosion and rockfalls.

The Keet Seel

Keet Seel means “Broken Pottery” in Navajo. It’s the best-preserved cliff dwelling around, with 160 rooms and six kivas packed into a massive alcove. Built between 1250 and 1300 CE, the place has cool features like T-shaped doorways that made it easier to carry objects inside.

You can still see the mud-and-stick storage bins they used for corn, beans, and squash. An interesting note is that archaeological evidence suggests Keet Seel was built in stages, with construction beginning around 1250 CE.

The Inscription House

Inscription House got its name from writings dated 1661 found on a wall. This remote spot has 74 rooms and one kiva in a relatively small alcove. Located in a western branch of Nitsin Canyon, archaeological investigations have uncovered unique architectural features, including distinctive masonry patterns not found at Betatakin or Keet Seel.

By the way, these dwellings are closed to the public to protect them from damage.

A Massive Drought Forced People To Leave

Data suggests that a massive drought hit between 1276 and 1299 CE, right when people were clearing out. Tree-ring studies from old wood show rainfall practically stopped. The exodus was gradual, with families probably heading toward better water sources. Some rooms show doorways sealed up with special items left behind on purpose.

Walk With Rangers For the Best Parts

You can go see Betatakin after a 5-mile round-trip hike that’s a tough climb during the summer heat. For Keet Seel, you need one of the limited permits for the 17-mile round-trip journey, crossing streams and climbing steep trails. Inscription House is completely off-limits.

Easy Trails For Hikers Of All Kinds

Not up for a hardcore hike? No sweat, if you’re okay with only seeing the ruins from a distance. A shorter 3-mile option may be available depending on trail conditions (e.g., Aspen Trail).

The paved Sandal Trail runs a mile to an overlook with great views of Betatakin across the canyon. The half-mile Canyon View Trail takes you through pinyon-juniper woods with views of Tsegi Canyon.

You might spot some mule deer, desert bighorn sheep, or peregrine falcons while you’re out there. Signs explain how everything survives out here in the desert and how the ancient folks used what they found.

Free Camping Under Clear Skies

Unlike most parks that charge an arm and a leg, camping here is free. The 31-site Sunset View Campground stays open year-round, first-come, first-served, with great views across the canyon.

In warmer months, there’s also the 14-site Canyon View Campground among the trees. Both have picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms. No showers or hookups though.

At night, the stars are unbelievable, no light pollution for miles. Since the monument sits at 7,000 feet elevation, even summer nights are comfortable when the lower desert is still baking hot.

After You Visit The Monument

Done with the monument? Just an hour away is Monument Valley’s famous rock formations, you’ve seen them in every Western movie.

Canyon de Chelly is close by too, with its ancient dwellings and modern Navajo farms still working the canyon floor. About two hours west is Lake Powell for boating and swimming in the desert.

Don’t forget to check out the Navajo Nation Museum in Window Rock. Around the monument, local artists sell handmade jewelry, weavings, and pottery.

It also serves as a perfect starting point for exploring the “Grand Circle” of Southwestern parks, including the Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Mesa Verde.

Visiting the Navajo National Monument

The monument’s open year-round, but services get limited in winter. The center is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The visitor center opens daily 8 AM to 5 PM, with historical exhibits, a short film, and ranger programs.