The ancient sanctuary that spares Hawaiian criminals from execution if they could swim to it

Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, Hawaii

Ancient Hawaii had a death penalty for almost everything. Stepped on a chief’s shadow? Dead. Ate the wrong fish? Dead.

But there was one safe sanctuary on the Big Island where spiritual protection trumped royal power, especially if you faced execution.

From 1400 to 1819, even murderers could find refuge at Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau if they could reach its sacred grounds fast enough.

Here’s how this life-saving system worked for centuries, and how you can walk these same sacred grounds today.

The Deadly Consequences of Breaking Kapu

Breaking kapu meant instant death in Hawaiian society. These sacred rules controlled everything from meals to how people interacted.

Hawaiians thought failing to kill rule-breakers would anger the gods, causing disasters like volcanic eruptions or food shortages.

Warriors chased law-breakers across land and sea. Only reaching the sanctuary could save someone from execution.

Origins of the Hawaiian Sanctuary System

Early Hawaiian leaders created sanctuaries alongside their strict law system to ensure people could earn forgiveness after breaking sacred rules.

By 1400, these places of refuge became key parts of Hawaiian governance. The Pu’uhonua prevented endless revenge cycles and kept society stable.

The sanctuary stayed active for hundreds of years. It gave Hawaiian society balance by offering both punishment and forgiveness.

Construction of the Great Wall in 1550

Hawaiians built the Great Wall in 1550 using raw lava rocks stacked without mortar. This barrier stretches over 1,000 feet along the coast.

Standing 12 feet high and 18 feet wide, the wall marked where royal land ended and sacred sanctuary began.

Anyone who crossed this wall entered a protected space. Much of this impressive structure still stands today, nearly 500 years after Hawaiians built it.

Building of Hale o Keawe Temple in 1650

Workers built the Hale o Keawe temple to serve both as a temple and a tomb for 23 high-ranking chiefs back in the day.

Hawaiians believed the chiefs’ bones held mana or powerful spiritual energy that made the whole sanctuary sacred.

Wooden ki’i or carved images of gods guarded the temple. The building stood as the sanctuary’s spiritual center for almost 170 years.

The Desperate Journey to Sanctuary

Getting to safety required great courage.

Law-breakers had to escape warriors trained to catch them like swimming past strong currents and deadly man-eating sharks.

The sharp lava rock shoreline made approaching from the ocean very risky.

Others crossed land, risking capture; this perilous journey was the only hope for Hawaiians breaking sacred laws to survive.

Sanctuary for Three Types of Refugees

The Pu’uhonua protected three groups of people. First were those who broke sacred laws and faced execution.

Defeated warriors also found safety inside its boundaries. They escaped death from enemy fighters by reaching the sanctuary.

During wars, women, children, and older people sought protection here too. The sanctuary kept all non-fighters safe until conflicts ended.

The Absolution Ceremony to Cleanse Souls

Inside the sanctuary, kahuna (Hawaiian priests) led cleansing ceremonies. The process began with the person asking the gods for forgiveness.

Hawaiian priests at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau offered food and fish as cleansing gifts, as recorded by the U.S. National Park Service.

After finishing their rituals, the forgiven person could safely return home. Their offense was erased, and they faced no more punishment.

Common Kapu Violations in Hawaii

Many fled to the sanctuary after breaking tribal customs, especially around elders. Looking directly at a high chief meant death.

Touching a chief or their belongings was seriously forbidden. Even walking where a chief had walked could get someone killed.

Women sought sanctuary after eating forbidden foods like pork and bananas, or if they sat and ate alongside the men.

The End of the Sanctuary System in 1819

The sanctuary system ended in 1819 after King Kamehameha I died. His son Liholiho (Kamehameha II) abolished the kapu system.

This happened during an event called ‘Ai Noa, meaning “free eating.” The king ate with women in public, breaking one of the most important rules.

After 400 years of use, the Pu’uhonua lost its purpose. The sacred site fell into despair as Hawaiian society changed rapidly.

Kapu System Was Termed Pagan Soon After

Missionaries arrived and encouraged the destruction of native temples and idols, calling them pagan.

Chiefs and high-ranking women publicly broke religious laws. Rituals and ceremonies no longer held any power.

The thatched Hale o Keawe temple was abandoned, and its carved wooden images were removed or left to decay.

Sun, salt air, and neglect wore down its walls until restoration began in the 20th century.

Visiting Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park

You’ll find Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau on the western Kona coast of Hawaii’s Big Island.

From Highway 11, turn at the Honaunau Post Office onto Highway 160 and drive toward the ocean for about 3.5 miles.

Don’t miss the Great Wall, Hale o Keawe temple replica, and royal fishponds. The nearby palm grove provides a shaded area for reflection.

Rangers at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau share insights on ancient sanctuary laws near Hale o Keawe, while self-guided tours feature detailed signs.

NOTE: As a sacred site, show respect by not climbing on structures.

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