The Ancient Tlingit Stronghold That Fought Russian Invaders in 1800s

Totem Bight State Historical Park, Alaska

In 1804, Tlingit warriors made their stand against Russian fur traders in what would become one of Alaska’s most brutal colonial battles.

The chief houses at Totem Bight tell this story through carved cedar and painted symbols.

Here’s what happened, preserved as a state park you can visit today.

Totem Bight State Historical Park

Totem Bight State Historical Park sits ten miles north of Ketchikan on Alaska’s coast. The U.S. Forest Service created this 11-acre site in 1938 to save Native Alaskan art.

The park features a rebuilt Tlingit clan house and 15 restored totem poles. Before becoming a park, Tlingit people used this spot as a fishing camp called Mud Village.

In 1970, Alaska added it to the National Register of Historic Places.

A Traditional Tlingit Dwelling

The clan house at Totem Bight shows how Tlingit families lived in the 1800s. Its entrance stands just four feet tall, forcing visitors to bend down – a clever defense trick.

Inside is one large room with a central fireplace. A wooden platform surrounds this hearth where people slept and lived.

Workers shaped every wooden surface by hand using stone and wooden tools called adzes.

The Role Of Clan House Chiefs

A house chief led each clan house, governing up to 50 family members under one roof. These family groups formed the basic units of Tlingit society.

In Tlingit culture, family lines pass through mothers, so children belong to their mother’s clan. Clan houses served as places for ceremonies, meetings, and teaching traditions to younger generations.

Storytelling Through House Carvings

The front of the clan house displays a blue and brown raven painted by Charles Brown, a Native carver from Saxman. This detailed decoration shows the clan’s wealth and status.

Look closely and you’ll see the raven’s eyes are actually human faces. Inside, carved posts tell stories, including one about Duktoothl, a Raven clan hero strong enough to tear a sea lion in half.

The Story Of The Entrance Pole

The Wandering Raven House Entrance Pole stands at the clan house doorway. Raven sits on top, identifiable by his straight black beak.

Below him is a box representing daylight from the story of Raven bringing light to the world. Further down is Natsihline, who brought a killer whale to life through carving.

Charles Brown created this pole specifically for Totem Bight, combining several important stories in one carving.

Russian Outpost Destroyed

In 1802, Tlingit warriors destroyed the Russian trading post at Sitka. The Russians had built “Redoubt Saint Michael” there in 1799 as a fur trading base under Alexander Baranov.

The Kiks.ádi clan led this attack against the unwelcome settlers. Their victory drove away the Russians and killed many foreigners and their Aleut allies, beginning a larger conflict.

Fort Built For Defense

After driving out the Russians, the Tlingit built a massive fort called Shiskinoow (“sapling fort”) where the Indian River meets the sea. Using about 1,000 spruce logs, they constructed a 240 by 165 foot fortress.

They built it at the high water line where shallow waters kept Russian ships at a distance while maintaining access to fresh water.

The Final Stand At Sitka

The Russians returned in autumn 1804 with the warship Neva under Lieutenant Commander Yuri Lisyansky. The Tlingit held their ground for five days, fighting from their wooden fort.

The battle changed when a canoe carrying gunpowder exploded, killing several young Tlingit leaders and destroying vital supplies. This was the last major armed conflict between Russians and Alaska Natives.

Retreat And Survival

With their gunpowder gone, the Kiks.ádi clan abandoned their fort. Under darkness, they escaped across Baranov Island in what became known as the “Kiks.ádi Survival March.”

They regrouped at another location called Cháatl Ḵáa Noow (“Halibut Man Fort”). This retreat saved the clan despite losing their main fort. The Russians then established what became the town of Sitka.

Saving Cultural Heritage

By the early 1900s, many Native villages stood empty as people moved to find work. In 1938, the Forest Service started saving deteriorating totem poles, hiring skilled Tlingit and Haida carvers.

Architect Linn Forrest directed these Native artists who restored 103 totem poles and three community houses. The project preserved cultural treasures and passed carving skills to younger generations.

Cultural Resistance Continues

Though defeated in battle, the Tlingit kept their cultural identity during Russian occupation. In 1805, they made peace while maintaining their own ways.

The Russians kept cannons pointed at Tlingit villages throughout their stay in Alaska. Over time, the two groups developed trade partnerships while maintaining cultural boundaries.

The stand at Sitka remains a symbol of Native resistance.

Visiting Totem Bight State Historical Park

Totem Bight State Historical Park sits at milepost 10 on North Tongass Highway, ten miles north of Ketchikan. The park opens daily from dawn to dusk year-round. Entry is free for all visitors.

The Silver Line city bus runs hourly from downtown Ketchikan if you lack transportation.

Free brochures at the entrance explain each totem pole and the clan house’s cultural significance. Inside the clan house, see how Tlingit chiefs lived in the 1800s and learn about their resistance to Russian colonization in 1804.

The visitor center offers additional exhibits on Tlingit culture and history. Restrooms and picnic facilities are available on site.

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