How John Muir Fell In Love with Yosemite on His 1868 Walk Thru the Sierras

John Muir, the Naturalist Explorer

In 1868, a scraggly Scottish wanderer named John Muir stumbled into Yosemite Valley for the first time.

He had no fancy gear, no guide, just curiosity and worn boots. That walk changed everything for American nature.

Here’s what happened in the valley that became his lifelong obsession.

John Muir Falls in Love with the Sierras

John Muir first came to San Francisco on March 27, 1868, by ship from New York. At 30 years old, he had just walked 1,000 miles from Indiana to Florida.

When someone asked where he wanted to go in San Francisco, Muir simply said: “Anywhere that is wild.” His first visit to Yosemite Valley lasted only ten days.

This short trip began his lifelong love for the Sierra Nevada mountains. Muir would return many times and later fought to protect this special place for future generations.

Taking the Long Way ‘Round

Muir took a boat from San Francisco to Oakland to start his walk east. Most people traveled the easy way, by boat to Stockton, then by stagecoach, and finally on horseback.

Muir wanted to walk the whole way. He called it “drifting leisurely mountainward,” showing how much he enjoyed slow travel through nature.

From Oakland, he walked south through farms and small towns. The entire trip would cover about 300 miles on foot, letting Muir see all types of California landscapes.

Through the Santa Clara Valley

Muir walked through the Santa Clara Valley under clear blue skies. He called it “a lake of light.” The valley was filled with farms growing wheat, fruit trees, grapes, and hay.

Round, oak-covered hills stood on both sides of his path. Muir noticed how nicely these hills curved down to meet the valley floor. Wildflowers grew in patches of white, purple, and yellow colors.

Muir loved studying plants and noticed these details everywhere he went. He walked all the way to Gilroy at the south end of the valley before heading toward the mountains.

The Enchanting Pacheco Pass

Muir crossed the Diablo Mountains through Pacheco Pass, which sits 1,472 feet above sea level. This natural gap was the easiest way between valleys.

Clear streams flowed through the pass, making pleasant sounds as Muir walked. He found this mountain crossing just as beautiful as the valley.

California quail birds called loudly throughout the pass. These birds have a small curved feather on their heads and later became California’s state bird.

From the top of the pass, Muir saw the huge San Joaquin Valley spread out below, with his first view of the distant Sierra Nevada mountains.

Crossing the San Joaquin Valley

After Pacheco Pass, Muir crossed the wide San Joaquin Valley. Spring wildflowers covered the ground like a “vast golden flower-bed” stretching toward the mountains.

He headed for the Merced River, knowing this river flowed from Yosemite Valley.

Muir crossed the San Joaquin River to reach the foothills, the start of higher ground. His path took him through Snelling, one of the few small towns along his route, where gold miners and early settlers lived.

Meeting Chilwell, An English Companion

During his journey, Muir gained an unexpected traveling partner: a young Englishman named Chilwell whom he had met on the ship. Muir called Chilwell “a most amusing and faithful companion.”

At Chilwell’s request, they bought an old army gun for protection against bears. Muir usually traveled with minimal gear but agreed to carry the weapon to make his companion feel safer.

Through Coulterville and Into the Sierra Foothills

Muir and Chilwell passed through Coulterville, a Gold Rush town and the last real settlement before the mountains. From there, they entered the Sierra foothills in May 1868, with snow still visible on higher peaks.

Muir saw “beautiful trees with blue foliage and white bark” that created “a fine park-like effect.” These were blue oaks, common in the foothills with their blue-green leaves.

As they climbed higher, pine trees became more common. They followed the Merced River canyon upward toward Yosemite.

A Night at Crane Flat

Muir and Chilwell spent a night at Crane Flat in a small cabin made of pine wood. A mountaineer had built it hoping to claim the land.

Snow was still six feet deep at this high elevation, normal for late spring. Chilwell made beds inside using soft evergreen branches for comfort.

Muir had actually suggested sleeping outside under the trees on the snow, showing his comfort with nature. Chilwell preferred the shelter, showing he wasn’t as used to outdoor living.

From Crane Flat, they would follow the trail to the edge of Yosemite Valley.

First Glimpse of Bridal Veil Fall

Muir and Chilwell reached the valley’s edge just as Bridal Veil Fall came into view. Not recognizing this famous waterfall, Muir completely misjudged its size.

He thought it was only 15-20 feet high, not understanding how huge Yosemite’s features truly are. Bridal Veil Fall is actually 620 feet tall, one of North America’s highest waterfalls.

Muir told Chilwell, “I should like to camp at the foot of it to see the ferns and lilies that may be there.” Even surrounded by amazing scenery, he was curious about small plants and details.

The Overwhelming Magnificence of Yosemite Valley

Entering Yosemite Valley, Muir was completely amazed. He climbed down cliffs to see waterfalls up close and was heard “whooping and howling at the views.”

Surprisingly, Muir wrote very little about his first impressions, finding the valley “too vast, too overpowering to be put into words.” Later he called it “the grandest of all the special temples of Nature.”

Several dozen people already lived in the valley year-round. There was even an apple orchard, showing that Yosemite, though wild, already had people living there in 1868.

Eight Days of Exploration

Muir and Chilwell explored Yosemite Valley for eight to ten days. They visited waterfalls and climbed to high viewpoints around the valley walls to see everything from different angles.

Muir made drawings and collected flowers and ferns throughout the valley. His scientific approach included studying plant species and rock formations.

The night before leaving, they camped near Bridal Veil Meadows and were visited by a brown bear. Despite their fears, the bear just walked away and they never needed their gun.

Visiting Yosemite National Park

Located at 9039 Village Drive, Yosemite National Park, CA 95389, this iconic park spans nearly 1,200 square miles.

The park remains open 24 hours daily year-round, though some roads close seasonally. Your entrance fee is $35 for vehicles (valid 3 days).

During summer peak times (6am-2pm, June 15-August 15), you’ll need advance reservations through Recreation.gov ($2 fee). Access the park via Highways 41, 140, or 120 from the west.

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