Lewis and Clark Nearly Quit After This Montana Waterfall Took Them 31 Days to Cross

The Great Falls, Montana

Great Falls, Montana wasn’t supposed to be a month-long nightmare for Lewis and Clark. The Hidatsa tribe had mentioned “one waterfall” to portage around.

Reality delivered five waterfalls and 18 miles of backbreaking labor that nearly broke the Corps of Discovery.

Here’s their survival story, still visible at the historic site today.

The Great Portage Begins

In June 1805, Meriwether Lewis heard a roar in the distance that led him to the Great Falls of the Missouri River. Lewis and William Clark were leading a team across the newly bought Louisiana Territory.

They thought they could carry their boats around the falls in one day. Instead, the team faced an 18-mile journey that took 31 tiring days.

They pulled heavy canoes and supplies across rough land in what became the hardest part of their entire 8,000-mile trip.

The Big Waterfall That Amazed Lewis

Lewis went ahead of the main group on June 13, 1805. He heard what he called “the agreeable sound of a fall of water” and followed the loud noise.

Soon he saw mist rising above the land. When Lewis reached the falls, he found a huge waterfall dropping 87 feet down rocky cliffs.

As he looked around, he saw not just one waterfall but five major falls. The Missouri River dropped 612 feet through these waterfalls.

Lewis wished he had drawing tools to show this amazing sight to others.

Clark Found the Best Path Around

Clark spent June 17-20 looking at both sides of the river to find the best path around the falls. After careful study, he chose the south side.

The north bank had too many deep ditches that would block their way. Clark measured the total distance at 18 miles from Belt Creek to a place called White Bear Islands.

To help guide the men carrying their supplies, Clark put tall stakes across the open plains. These markers kept the team from getting lost on the flat, featureless land.

Wooden Wheels That Kept Breaking

The team built simple carts to move their canoes and supplies. They cut wheels from cottonwood logs by slicing rounds from the trunks and drilling holes through the centers.

These wooden wheels attached to axles pulled by men using ropes. But the soft cottonwood couldn’t handle the weight of their heavy canoes and broke often.

Each breakdown forced the tired men to stop and make fixes. These many delays added days to their journey.

Three Pests That Made Life Miserable

The men suffered from what Lewis called their “trio of pests” – mosquitoes, tiny biting gnats, and prickly pear cactus. These three bothers made their work awful.

Swarms of insects attacked them all the time. Worse yet, tiny cactus spines stuck through their leather shoes and into their feet.

The men added extra layers to their shoes, but even these tougher shoes only lasted two days before needing fixes. By night, many men fell down from being so tired.

Bears That Scared The Team

The team faced many run-ins with grizzly bears during their journey around the falls. These bears, which they called “white bears,” were more dangerous than any animal they had met before.

Lewis thought the bears were so scary that he wouldn’t let men go alone on errands. Alexander Willard was chased back to camp by one bear.

John Colter had to jump into the river to escape another. The men stayed watchful at all times while working, knowing these strong hunters were nearby.

Hot Days and Cold Nights

Weather made the journey even harder. Daytime heat drained the men’s strength as they pulled heavy loads across the open plains with no shade.

Sudden storms brought heavy rain and painful hail that forced them to stop working. At night, it got so cold that their wet shoes froze near their fires.

Once, strong winds actually helped by filling the sails they put on their canoes on carts, briefly making their load lighter.

A Flash Flood Nearly Killed Them

On June 29, Clark was working with York (his servant), Sacagawea (their Native American guide), her husband Charbonneau, and her baby Jean Baptiste. A sudden storm broke out.

They took shelter in a dry ditch that quickly filled with rushing water. The flood carried rocks and mud downstream with great force.

Clark pushed Sacagawea and her baby up the bank while Charbonneau froze in fear. Though they lost several items, including Clark’s umbrella, they barely escaped with their lives.

The Boat That Wouldn’t Float

Lewis had designed a special boat with an iron frame. The team carried this frame in pieces for over a year, planning to build it at the Great Falls.

At their camp above the falls, men put together the frame and covered it with fresh animal skins. Without pine trees nearby to make tar for waterproofing, they mixed charcoal, buffalo fat, and beeswax instead.

On July 9, they tested the boat. Though it floated at first, the homemade sealant failed, and water leaked in. Lewis sadly gave up on his “favorite boat.”

Making New Canoes From Trees

Without the iron boat, they didn’t have enough boats to carry all their supplies upriver. Clark and ten men traveled 14 miles upstream to find good trees.

They spent several days cutting down cottonwood trees and hollowing them into dugout canoes. By July 13, everyone moved to this “Canoe Camp.”

The two new dugout canoes gave them the extra space they needed. After a month-long delay, they were finally ready to continue their journey west.

Hiding Things For The Trip Home

The team dug a hiding spot at the portage site. They buried the iron boat frame along with other heavy items they couldn’t carry further.

They also left their biggest boat hidden under branches at Belt Creek. This boat was too large to carry around the falls but would be useful on their return trip.

When they came back in July 1806, they found their hidden boat still in good shape. This smart planning helped them manage their limited supplies.

Visiting the Great Falls, Missouri River

Access the main viewing area at Ryan Island Park (160 Ryan Dam Road, Great Falls, MT) via suspension bridge over the Missouri River.

The park operates Mother’s Day through Labor Day, daylight to dark, with free admission and no reservations required.

You’ll find picnic facilities, restrooms, and River’s Edge Trail access. Multiple falls are viewable along River Drive North, including Black Eagle Falls at 5401 River Drive North.

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