This Unusual Alaska Town Crams 250 Residents Into One 14-Story Building

Whittier, Alaska

Most of Alaska feels remote, but Whittier takes it to another level.

This tiny town sits tucked behind mountains, accessible only by a single tunnel that closes at night. Nearly everyone lives in one massive concrete tower left over from World War Two.

This is how they make it work.

The Military Selects a Strategic Location

In 1941, the U.S. Army needed a secure port to supply Alaska’s military bases during World War II. They chose Whittier for three key reasons that would protect it from Japanese attacks.

The deep-water harbor never froze, unlike other Alaskan ports. Mountains and frequent clouds hid the location from enemy aircraft, while the surrounding peaks blocked radar signals.

Only mountain passes led to Whittier, making it easy to defend. This remote spot became Alaska’s backup to the main port at Seward.

Drilling Through Two Mountains

Construction began in August 1941 with Army engineer Anton Anderson leading the massive project. Workers drilled from both sides of the mountains through solid rock in freezing temperatures.

The $5.3 million project created two tunnels: one mile through Begich Peak and 2.5 miles through Maynard Mountain. Despite wartime shortages and brutal weather, crews finished ahead of schedule.

Workers celebrated the breakthrough on November 20, 1942. The first train completed the full journey on June 1, 1943, opening Alaska’s new supply line.

Whittier Becomes Alaska’s Lifeline

A week after the first train arrived, troops landed at Whittier’s new port and traveled through the tunnel to bases across Alaska. This rail connection cut 60 miles off supply routes from Prince William Sound to interior Alaska.

The military divided operations efficiently: Whittier handled war supplies while Seward continued with civilian cargo. The $11 million port included docks, warehouses, rail yards, a power plant, and housing.

In just two years, Whittier transformed from empty coastline to Alaska’s main military supply hub during a critical period in American history.

Building a City Under One Roof

The military completed the Buckner Building in 1953, officially called the “Composite Bachelor Housing Service and Recreation Center.” This six-story structure functioned as a complete town under one roof.

The building housed hundreds of soldiers with sleeping quarters and dining halls. Entertainment included a 320-seat movie theater and four-lane bowling alley.

Services ranged from a shooting range and bakery to a bank, barber shop, commissary, radio stations, dental clinic, and hospital with surgical facilities. Thick concrete walls protected against bombing and Alaska’s harsh weather.

The Family Housing Tower

The Hodge Building rose in 1957 to house military families rather than single soldiers. Named for Colonel Walter William Hodge, who led construction of the Alaska-Canada Highway, the 14-story tower provided comfortable family living.

The building contained 150 two- and three-bedroom apartments plus smaller units for singles. One smart feature connected the Whittier School through an underground tunnel.

Children could attend classes without facing Whittier’s extreme weather, including hurricane-force winds and heavy snowfalls. This family-friendly design was uncommon in military housing at the time.

The Army Packs Up and Leaves

Military operations ended in 1960 as Cold War strategy shifted away from Alaska. After the troops left, Whittier’s population crashed as jobs disappeared and buildings stood empty.

The port operated at reduced capacity during this difficult transition. Residents recognized they needed local government to survive as a civilian community.

They voted to incorporate Whittier as an official city in 1969. Three years later, the city bought the massive Cold War buildings from the federal government, taking control of structures that would define the town’s future.

Earthquake and Tsunami Strike

On March 27, 1964, the Good Friday Earthquake hit Whittier with devastating force. Measuring 9.2 on the moment magnitude scale, it remains North America’s strongest recorded earthquake.

Three tsunami waves followed in quick succession. The largest, reaching 104 feet high, crashed into a lumber mill where 12 people were celebrating a birthday, including six children.

Thirteen residents died in the disaster – nearly 20 percent of the town’s 70 people. Damage totaled over $10 million, destroying waterfront and rail facilities while the concrete military buildings survived mostly intact.

A Tower Becomes Home for Everyone

In 1973, the Hodge Building was renamed Begich Towers to honor Alaska Congressman Nick Begich, who vanished in a 1972 plane crash between Anchorage and Juneau.

The Begich Towers Condominium Association took over management in 1974. The 196 apartments of various sizes became home to most of Whittier’s civilian population.

The building also housed essential services: post office, police station, health clinic, church, grocery store, and laundromat. This self-contained setup let residents handle daily needs without leaving the building during harsh weather.

The Buckner Building Crumbles Away

The abandoned Buckner Building began falling apart after 1966 without maintenance. Alaska’s brutal climate steadily damaged the once-impressive structure.

A 2016 inspection found serious problems: crumbling concrete, rusted support beams, major wall cracks, and ice formations where water leaked through the ceiling. Businessman Pete Zamarello once planned to convert it into a resort but costs proved too high.

Demolishing the building would cost $20-25 million today. It stands as an unsafe concrete monument to Whittier’s military past, too expensive to fix or tear down.

Opening the Road to the Outside World

An $80 million project converted the old railroad tunnel for cars and trucks. Engineers built staging areas to organize traffic and installed precise timing systems.

Cars pass through spaced 2.5 seconds apart, while buses get 45-second intervals. The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel opened to vehicles on June 7, 2000, ending Whittier’s isolation.

Before highway access, people reached Whittier only by boat or train. The 2.5-mile tunnel became North America’s longest combined rail and highway passage, with trains and vehicles sharing the route on a coordinated schedule.

Getting to Whittier

The only way to reach Whittier by land is through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a 2.5-mile tunnel that’s shared by both cars and trains. The tunnel operates on a schedule, and cars can only go through at certain times so check the current schedule before you go. There’s a toll for vehicles.

You can also get there by ferry or small plane, but most people drive. The tunnel connects to the Seward Highway, which runs between Anchorage and Seward.

Read More from This Brand:

• The National Park That’s Bigger Than Switzerland, with Active Volcanoes, Shifting Glaciers, and Wild Alaskan Beauty
• This Sustainable Alaskan Resort Has an Ice Museum, Natural Hot Springs & Its Own Greenhouse
• 11 Amazing Things About Valdez, Alaska – America’s Snowiest Town