
Slab City, CA
There’s a place in the California desert where society’s rules don’t apply.
Slab City grew up around the concrete remains of an old marine base, and now it’s home to anyone willing to live without running water or electric bills. And that includes thousands of people trying to make it work with solar panels, generators, and whatever they can scavenge.
Here’s what life looks like in America’s strangest neighborhood.

From Marine Base to Desert Community
The Marine Corps opened Camp Dunlap on October 15, 1942 during World War II. Military officials named it after Brigadier General Robert Henry Dunlap, honoring his service record.
The 10th, 12th, and 13th Marine Artillery Regiments trained at this desert facility for combat deployment. Camp Dunlap sprawled across 631 acres with 30 buildings, water systems, sewage treatment plants, and eight miles of paved roads.
Marines dismantled every structure by 1956, leaving only concrete foundation slabs behind. The Department of Defense handed the land to California through a quitclaim deed in 1961.
Visitors now pass through the original guard house at the entrance, repurposed as a welcome sign to Slab City.

The First Slabbers Arrive
Veterans who worked at Camp Dunlap moved onto the abandoned slabs first, knowing the area well. Workers harvesting creosote crops for pharmaceutical companies followed soon after, setting up camps that became permanent over time.
Drifters heard about free living space in the California desert and began arriving in growing numbers. Word spread through nomadic communities about this place without rules or costs.
Population jumped to approximately 15,000 in the 1980s after Trailer Life and RV Magazine published an article about free camping at the site. California later designated that any money generated from this property would fund the State Teachers’ Retirement System.

Life Without Utilities
Slab City runs without electricity, water systems, sewers, or garbage collection. Residents build personal infrastructure using whatever materials they find or buy.
Solar panels power most homes and communal spaces throughout the settlement. Some residents operate complex systems using salvaged telecom batteries weighing 600 pounds each to store energy for nighttime use.
Water comes from Niland, the closest town with municipal services. Distribution happens at a blue trailer serving as the Community Center for all residents. Many people cut through fencing along the Coachella Canal for additional water access despite laws against it.
East Jesus artists installed composting toilets to reduce their impact on the desert environment.

Seasonal Population Flux
About 150 people live in Slab City year-round despite brutal summer conditions. Temperatures climb to 130°F during peak summer months, making survival difficult.
Resident Caddy described summer living plainly: “The environment is actively trying to kill you.”
Most visitors avoid the area during these dangerous heat waves. Population swells between October and May when 2,000 to 4,000 “snowbirds” arrive in recreational vehicles.
These seasonal residents flee cold northern winters for desert temperatures averaging between 55°F and 75°F. Winter transforms Slab City into a bustling community with music, art events, and communal meals.

Salvation Mountain’s Colorful Legacy
Leonard Knight started building Salvation Mountain in 1984 after his hot air balloon project failed.
This massive art installation now stands 50 feet tall at the entrance to Slab City. Knight used adobe clay, hay bales, tree limbs, and over 100,000 gallons of donated paint to construct his vision.
His first attempt collapsed in 1989 due to structural problems. Knight rebuilt with better materials, mixing adobe with straw for strength. He worked on his creation daily for almost three decades, covering it with Bible verses and “God Is Love” messages.

East Jesus Art Community
Charlie Russell founded East Jesus in 2007 after quitting his technology job. Known as “Container Charlie,” he shipped all his possessions to Slab City in a large metal container. Despite its name, East Jesus has no religious meaning.
The phrase simply refers to an extremely remote location “in the middle of nowhere.” This art installation now covers 30 acres with works from over 2,000 different artists using discarded materials.
The Chasterus Foundation formed after Russell died in 2011 and purchased the land from California in 2016 for permanent protection. Visitors find a performance space with a studio grand piano and professional lighting among the desert art displays. Solar power runs everything in this completely off-grid creative community.

The Range Music Venue
Builder Bill Ammon created The Range music venue in Slab City. He named it for sitting “halfway between home on the range and the United States Navy Ariel Gunnery Range” in the nearby Chocolate Mountains.
Bill built the entire structure from salvaged materials found in the desert. Old hubcaps decorate the stage while discarded bus seats and worn-out couches provide seating for audiences.
Talent shows happen every Saturday at dusk with performers ranging from professional musicians to first-time singers. Anyone can join the lineup regardless of experience level. Robin Ammon, Builder Bill’s wife, collected old prom dresses for community members.
Many residents never attended formal dances in their youth, so Robin organized special events using these donated gowns.

Neighborhoods Within The Slabs
Slab City contains over a dozen distinct neighborhoods, each with unique rules and culture. These micro-communities reflect the diverse backgrounds of people seeking freedom in the desert.
California Ponderosa operates like a desert hostel under the leadership of a man called Spyder. He charges residents $125 monthly for breakfast, dinner, and basic living amenities.
Spyder arrived nine years ago with three children and vehicle troubles. After selling his truck, he established his community and bought structures from the previous owner. Creative repurposing defines Slab City living.
The community skate park fills the old Camp Dunlap swimming pool foundation. Another area houses rescued stuffed animals in a “Home for Abandoned Teddy Bears” display.

Who Calls Slab City Home
Builder Bill Ammon once noted “a kind of segregation” between different resident groups. Older inhabitants typically exchange goods and services while some younger residents struggle with self-sufficiency.
Surprising individuals include a former banker who stayed at the community hostel before settling permanently. Artists, writers, and musicians come seeking inspiration away from conventional society rules.
Economic necessity drives many to Slab City. People living on Social Security or disability payments find the absence of rent makes survival possible on limited incomes. Bartering replaces cash transactions for many daily needs.
Some residents earn money by selling artwork and souvenirs to tourists who visit this unusual desert community.

Land Ownership Challenges
Residents live rent-free but remain squatters on land owned by the California State Teachers Retirement System. This creates uncertainty about how long the community can continue existing. Supporters formed Salvation Mountain Inc. in February 2011 to preserve Leonard Knight’s artwork.
The Annenberg Foundation contributed $32,000 in 2013 to improve security and maintenance at the site. When California considered selling the land to developers, residents organized resistance.
The Slab City Community Group formed in 2015 with plans to secure 450 acres in a community trust. This proposal divided residents with different visions for Slab City’s future. Some wanted official recognition while others preferred continuing without government involvement.

Visiting Slab City
Slab City sits 4 miles east of Niland, California on Highway 111. Turn east at the Niland sign and drive past Salvation Mountain to reach the community.
Park anywhere that seems safe and doesn’t block access roads. Bring plenty of water, food, and supplies for your visit. No stores, gas stations, or public restrooms exist within Slab City.
The Slab City Hostel offers basic accommodation for $30 per night if you want to stay overnight. Some residents also list spaces on Airbnb.
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