A Flooded Valley, Granite Cliffs & Epic Hiking Trails Define This Quiet Corner of Yosemite

Hetch Hetchy, Yosemite Valley

Before it held San Francisco’s water, Hetch Hetchy was John Muir’s paradise. Today, this part of Yosemite still shows why he fought so hard to save it. Massive waterfalls crash into a blue reservoir, trails wind past granite walls, and the crowds are nowhere in sight.

Here’s what you’ll find in Yosemite’s rebel valley.

No Crowds, Just Nature

While 5 million tourists jam into Yosemite yearly, only 1% bother with Hetch Hetchy. No shuttle buses, no snack bars, no hotel lobbies here.

The entrance sits off Highway 120 near Big Oak Flat, about 40 miles from the main valley. This distance keeps the tour buses away. 

No reservation needed like in the main valley during busy times either. Just pay the regular park fee and in you go.

Twin Valley with Giant Walls

Hetch Hetchy and Yosemite Valley are geological twins, carved by the same ancient ice.

Kolana Rock punches 5,772 feet into the sky from the south while Hetch Hetchy Dome hits 6,197 feet on the north.

It’s the same setup as El Capitan and Cathedral Rocks in the main valley, except you have much more space to yourself here.

The Mighty O’Shaughnessy Dam

This massive concrete wall stands 430 feet tall and created the reservoir you see today.

Walk across it and read the signs telling you how this valley got flooded to create a water supply. From here, you’ll spot waterfalls that make the whole controversy worth understanding.

Monster Waterfalls That Roar

Two of North America’s tallest waterfalls crash over thousand-foot cliffs here.

Wapama Falls drops 1,080 feet, while Tueeulala Falls plunges 840 feet.

The trail to Wapama crosses footbridges that sometimes get hammered with so much water park rangers close them. Hike farther east and you’ll hit Rancheria Falls, another monster cascade.

Unlike Yosemite Falls that often goes dry by August, these falls usually run year-round thanks to the reservoir system.

Empty Trails All Year

Sitting at just 3,900 feet, Hetch Hetchy offers one of the longest hiking seasons in Yosemite.

The area contains over 287 miles of trails, including sections of the famous Pacific Crest Trail.

Try the Lookout Point trail – a moderate two-mile trek to a rocky outcrop with killer views. Want more burn? Tackle Smith Peak trail, climbing to 7,751 feet, the highest point around.

Spring Flower Explosion

When winter backs off, Hetch Hetchy erupts with wildflowers.

Purple lupine dominates, while Monkey Flowers and Buttercups add splashes of color. Look for California poppies, wallflowers, shooting stars, and waterfall buttercups.

Different elevations mean staggered blooming schedules – lower areas flower first, then higher slopes catch up. The meadows near Tueeulala Falls offer the best flower viewing.

Wildlife Without Waiting

Unlike crowded park areas, wildlife viewing here doesn’t require endless patience.

Watch for California newts crossing trails after rain. Butterflies swarm in spring and summer, especially around wildflower patches.

Black bears roam this backcountry regularly, and lizards and squirrels sun themselves on warm rocks beside trails.

Don’t forget to look up for hawks and eagles riding thermals above the valley.

Star-Filled Night Skies

Far from city lights with minimal development, Hetch Hetchy has amazing dark skies for stargazing.

The east-west valley orientation gives a wide window to the night sky, and the mountains block light pollution from distant towns.

Since the road closes at sunset, overnight visitors are just backpackers with permits, meaning almost no artificial light. The reservoir reflects stars, doubling the visual impact.

Visiting Hetch Hetchy

Hetch Hetchy sits about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Yosemite Valley.

To get there, take Highway 120 near the Big Oak Flat Entrance, then follow Evergreen Road to Hetch Hetchy Road for a total of 16 miles to the parking lot.

The road has limited hours, opening at sunrise and closing at sunset.

Regular park entrance fees apply – $35 per car for a 7-day pass or use your America the Beautiful pass.

There’s no lodging in Hetch Hetchy itself, but the Evergreen Lodge in nearby Camp Mather offers cabins and a restaurant.