Arizona’s “White Dove of the Desert” Continues to Tell Stories of Faith Under the Sonoran Sky

Mission San Xavier del Bac, Arizona

This brilliant white church has been serving the Tohono O’odham community since Spanish colonial times, surviving earthquakes, lightning strikes, and centuries of desert sun.

Today, San Xavier del Bac still does what it was built to do in 1797.

The ‘White Dove of the Desert’ remains an active parish for the Tohono O’odham Nation, where Mass happens daily underneath some of the most stunning colonial art in North America.

Here are more interesting facts about Mission San Xavier del Bac.

The Beautiful White Dove

San Xavier del Bac began in 1692 as a tiny dirt-floor church founded by Jesuit missionary Father Eusebio Kino in O’odham territory.

What stands today – the striking white mission often called the “White Dove of the Desert” – was built by Franciscan friars between 1783-1797 with Native American labor and artistry.

Through rebellions, abandonment, earthquakes, and lightning strikes, the mission has endured as the oldest intact European structure in Arizona.

One Tower Was Never Finished

Look up and you’ll notice something odd – one tower has a dome, the other doesn’t.

Local legends say builders stopped work because they’d have to pay taxes once the building was complete, while others claim it was left unfinished as a symbol of humility.

The west tower was fully restored in 2008, but the east tower is currently undergoing a massive $1 million restoration project.

Crews are carefully removing damaging concrete from previous renovations to expose the original adobe underneath before applying proper materials.

Native O’odham Artists Created the Incredible Interior

The stunning interior artwork represents a unique blend of European techniques and indigenous cultural elements. At least three different artists contributed to the works that cover the walls and vaulted ceilings.

What makes this especially meaningful is how the decoration reflects the blending of Spanish Catholic and O’odham desert cultures.

This tradition continues today – Tohono O’odham tribal members serve as the restoration workforce, learning conservation techniques from experts to pass along to future generations.

The “White” Part Refers to More Than the Color

The brilliant white isn’t just for show – it comes from a special mix of lime, sand, and juice from prickly pear cactus.

The locals have been using this recipe for centuries. The walls use a double-width technique with adobe brick and rock infill that dates back to Roman times.

When you visit, you’ll notice how conservationists burnish the surfaces with river cobbles – an ancient technique that keeps water from soaking in and damaging the structure.

It’s Been Around Since Before the United States Existed

Built between 1783-1797, this mission predates Arizona statehood by more than a century. Architect Ignacio Gaona directed its construction with funding from a 7,000-peso loan from a wealthy Sonoran rancher.

The mission founder, Father Eusebio Kino was also a mathematician, explorer, and cartographer who gave up a teaching position at an Austrian university to become a missionary.

The Original Construction Used No Nails

You won’t find a single nail in the original construction. Instead, builders used techniques like mortise and tenon joints and wooden pegs.

Pine for the woodwork came from the Santa Catalina Mountains, oak was used for the entry doors, and old growth mesquite trees provided wood for the altar railing and pulpit.

It Has Survived Everything Arizona Could Throw at It

This mission has weathered Apache raids, earthquakes, lightning strikes, and the brutal desert climate for over two centuries.

An Apache raid in 1770 destroyed the original church, leading to construction of the current building. In the late 1800s, the church endured several earthquakes, including a significant one in 1887 that damaged the façade and mortuary wall.

Unlike Most Historic Missions, This One Still Serves Its Original Purpose

While many historic missions are now just museums, San Xavier remains an active Catholic parish serving the Tohono O’odham community.

The Franciscan Sisters of Christian Charity, who have taught at the school since 1872, still reside in the mission convent.

The San Xavier Mission School continues operating and is currently accepting students for the 2025-2026 school year.

Beyond religious services, the mission supports a tuition-free K-8 school, provides counseling services, and welcomes more than 300,000 visitors annually.

The Restoration Story Seems Almost Miraculous

When the mission desperately needed restoration in the 1990s, funding appeared just in time.

Since 1978, the non-profit Patronato San Xavier has taken responsibility for preservation, relieving the parish of this enormous financial burden.

They’ve spent about $14 million over three decades on interior and exterior work, with funding from local supporters, the Getty Foundation, and the National Fund for Sacred Places.

A $10 million campaign in the 1990s removed damaging Portland cement applied in the 1940s-50s that was destroying the original adobe.

The Church Is Aligned With Astronomical Precision

On the winter solstice, sunlight enters through specific windows to illuminate the altar in a way that shows sophisticated architectural planning.

The church’s floor plan resembles a Latin cross, with a main aisle separated from the sanctuary by the transept with chapels at either end.

Above the transept, a dome rises 52 feet high. The building’s orientation blends European architectural knowledge with local geographic and astronomical understanding.

One Stone Lion “Roars” During Monsoon Rains

Listen closely during Arizona’s monsoon season and you might hear one of the carved lion figures on the façade “roar” as rainwater channels through its mouth.

These architectural elements create unique sensory experiences throughout the year, especially during Arizona’s distinctive weather patterns.

Houses Items Left by Those Who Believe They Were Healed

San Xavier attracts thousands of pilgrims annually who visit on foot and on horseback, some in ceremonial processions called cabalgatas.

Many pilgrims undertake their journey as a “manda” (a promise or vow), following a tradition dating back generations among O’odham families.

There’s a small room filled with crutches, photos, and items left by visitors who believe they experienced miraculous healings after praying at the mission.

Conservators Found a Hidden Mural During Restoration

During restoration in the 1990s, conservators discovered a previously unknown mural that had been hidden beneath layers of paint and soot for nearly 200 years.

Today, a husband-and-wife conservator team leads the interior conservation efforts – Tim Lewis, a member of the Tohono O’odham Nation, and Matilde Rubio, of Spanish descent.

Previous restoration attempts unfortunately damaged some original artwork when an artist painted over original decorations with oil-based pigment.

Current conservation techniques include injecting adhesive through syringes to reattach loose plaster and preserve these historic murals.