The “Yosemite of the North” is Raw Alaskan Wilderness Where No Roads Lead

Misty Fjords National Monument, Alaska

Just 22 miles from Ketchikan, this place will remind you just how untamed Alaska is. Misty Fjords serves up sheer cliffs and deep valleys carved by ancient glaciers, plus enough mist-wrapped peaks to earn its name.

No roads lead here, but it’s absolutely worth it if you do brave the journey.

When George Vancouver First Found These Waters

Europeans first visited this region in 1793 when George Vancouver explored Behm Canal. While mapping the coastal waters of the Pacific Northwest, Vancouver became the first to document the dramatic fjords and unique geological features of the area.

His detailed journals describe what he called the “perpetual mists” that hung over the waters.

Ancient Ice Carved These Fjords

About 18,000 years ago, massive ice sheets covered Southeast Alaska. When the glaciers finally retreated, they carved out the dramatic fjords we see today.

They gouged away softer rock while leaving harder formations intact, creating those incredible 3,000-foot cliffs that tower from the water and continue another 1,000 feet below the surface.

Parts of these fjords are even deeper than the Grand Canyon, reaching depths of 1,300 feet. On sunny days, you can still see glacial polish on rock surfaces reflecting sunlight.

Misty Fjords Reminded John Muir of Yosemite

John Muir, who helped establish many of America’s national parks, saw the similarities between Misty Fjords and Yosemite Valley.

Both share similar geology and were shaped by glaciers, which is why Misty Fjords earned its nickname “Yosemite of the North.”

It’s actually bigger than the entire state of Delaware. If you look closely at some rock formations, you might spot petroglyphs that date back thousands of years. And if you visit on a clear night, you’re in for a treat with some of Alaska’s most breathtaking aurora borealis displays.

There Are Tons of Valuable Minerals Here

While most of Misty Fjords has wilderness protection, Congress deliberately kept 151,832 acres open for the Quartz Hill molybdenum deposit. The metal plays a crucial role in creating super-strong steel alloys that the aerospace industry relies on.

This deposit is believed to be the largest of its kind anywhere in the world. According to geologists, there’s enough molybdenum here to meet global demand for about 40 years.

Despite its value, the deposit remains largely untouched because of environmental concerns.

The Majestic Behm Canal

Behm Canal stretches over 100 miles through Misty Fjords. This natural channel creates a boundary between Revillagigedo Island and the mainland while providing access to some of the most beautiful spots in the preserve: Walker Cove, Rudyerd Bay, and Punchbowl Cove.

When you travel the canal, you’ll notice the striking blue-green water color caused by glacial silt. Some sections plunge deeper than 1,200 feet below the surface.

Its sheltered waters create perfect feeding grounds where humpback whales can be spotted throughout the year.

The Towering Basalt Column In The Middle Of The Water

The New Eddystone Rock is a 237-foot tall column of basalt in the middle of the waterway, formed by ancient volcanic activity that shaped the region. From certain angles, the formation looks remarkably like a ship. During calm weather, you can kayak all the way around it.

It Rains Almost Daily at Misty Fjords

As part of a coastal rain forest, Misty Fjords gets drenched with up to 160 inches of rain each year. Nearby Ketchikan ranks as the 4th wettest place worldwide, seeing rain on roughly 300 days annually. All this moisture creates more than 200 waterfalls that appear after heavy rainfall.

You’ll find over 50 different moss species thriving in this wet environment. The frequent rain produces the misty conditions that gave the monument its name, with low clouds often surrounding the cliffs and creating a mysterious atmosphere.

Watch Out For The Massive Tide Changes When Camping

If you’re camping in Misty Fjords, be prepared for dramatic tide changes of up to 25 feet. A perfect beach campsite can end up completely underwater just a couple hours after you set up your tent. During spring tides, the water level can change by nearly 30 feet vertically.

You’ll need specialized tide charts for different areas within the monument to plan safely. Rangers strongly recommend setting up camp at least 50 feet above the high tide line.

The strong tidal currents create whirlpools in narrow passages that require careful navigation if you’re in a kayak.

The Rocks Here Are Older Than Dinosaurs

The light-colored granite that makes up much of Misty Fjords is incredibly old, dating back 50 to 70 million years to the Eocene Epoch and Cretaceous Period.

The region contains one of North America’s best-preserved examples of coastal batholith formation. You can still spot exposed lava flows from volcanic activity that happened millions of years ago.

The Giant Waterfall You Can Only See From A Plane

Among Misty Fjords’ many spectacular features is the 1,000-foot waterfall that pours from Big Goat Lake. You can only see this magnificent cascade from the air. The lake got its name because mountain goats are commonly found in the surrounding area.

During winter months, parts of the waterfall freeze into massive ice columns. To see this hidden natural treasure, you’ll need to book a specialized float plane tour.

The lake itself sits in a cirque basin, which is essentially a natural amphitheater carved into the mountainside by ancient glaciers.

A Wildlife-Rich Corner of Alaska

Throughout Misty Fjords, you’ll commonly encounter brown and black bears, mountain goats, and black-tailed deer.

The waters are filled with all five Pacific salmon species, along with sea lions, harbor seals, killer whales, and Dall porpoises. Humpback whales rely on the monument’s waters as crucial feeding areas.

Along the shoreline, you can spot pigeon guillemots, marbled murrelets, and bald eagles nesting in the trees. Wolf packs roam territories covering up to 300 square miles within the boundaries.

The monument provides one of North America’s largest unbroken wildlife corridors, allowing animals to move freely across vast distances.

Stay Overnight In A Remote Forest Service Cabin

If you’re looking for an overnight adventure, you can reserve one of 13 public-use cabins in advance, or try for one of four shelters available on a first-come basis.

Nine cabins are located on freshwater lakes inland, while two sit right on the saltwater. You can explore 10 maintained trails that take you through different ecosystems throughout the National Monument.

For the most popular cabins, you should book up to six months ahead, especially during summer. Some remote cabins can only be reached by float plane when weather permits.

Visiting Misty Fjords National Monument

The best ways to experience Misty Fjords are by air and sea. You can take flightseeing trips from Ketchikan for amazing aerial views, and some tours even include lake landings for short walks through the rainforest.

Since the area can only be reached by boat or float plane, be prepared for the associated costs. Comprehensive 13-day expeditions start around $4,300.

Getting to Ketchikan is straightforward with daily flights from Seattle, Anchorage, Juneau, and other Inside Passage communities. Alternatively, you can travel via Alaska Marine Highway ferries.

The main visitor center is located at 1515 Tongass in Ketchikan. For planning assistance, visit the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center in Ketchikan.